Coffee maker is a simple device, but it can also break down due to wear and tear, misuse, rare scaling, power surges and other reasons. The table below will help you fix the device. It describes the main causes of breakdown of this household appliance. This will help you to restore the correct operation of the device without any help.
Curtis D1000GT12A000 coffee maker troubleshooting
| Problem | Solution |
|---|---|
| Water Not Hot Enough | 1 If the water heats, but is not hot enough, first check for the correct temperature setting on the control panel. Reprogram as necessary. |
| 2 If the temperature setting is OK, and the actual water temperature does not match setting on the control panel, replace the temperature sensor. | |
| Water Heats More Slowly Than Usual | 1 Check for power across the terminals of the heating element(s). If power is being supplied, disconnect the heating element(s) and check for continuity. Replace a heating element if the resistance is too high (nominal resistance is 13 Ohms). |
| 2 If there is no power to the heating element(s), check the wiring to any element that does not have the proper voltage across it. Also check for corroded connections anywhere between the power cord and the heating element(s). | |
| Water Does Not Heat At All | • Check to see if the water level in the tank is in contact with the water level probe. If not, see Tank Does Not Fill. The water will not heat unless it is in contact with the probe. |
| • If the water heats, but is not hot enough, see Wafer Not Hot Enough. | |
| • If Ready to brew appears on the display, but the water is not hot, check the resistance across the leads of the temperature sensor. If the resistance is less than 10 k and the water is not hot, replace the temperature sensor. If the sensor resistance is above 10 k when the water is cool, replace the universal control module (UCM). | |
| If Heating... appears on the display, but the water is not hot | 1 Check for power across the terminals of the heating element(s). If power is being supplied, remove the wires and check for an open heating element. |
| 2 If there is no power to the element(s), trace the circuit back (using the ELECTRICAL SCHEMATIC) to the power cord to find out where power is lost. If there is power into the triac but not out, see the following step. | |
| 3 If there is power into a triac, but not out, check for power at the gate terminal. Also check the wire to A2 from the UCM. If the connections are good and power is being supplied to the triac, but there is no voltage out of A2, replace the triac. If power is not being supplied from the UCM, but Heating... appears on the display, check the wiring from the UCM to the triac. If the wiring is OK, replace the UCM. | |
| Water Too Hot (Boiling or Excessive Steaming) | IMPORTANT: Before proceeding, make sure that the control panel temperature is adjusted to compensate for higher elevations. The factory setting is 200F (93C). Reduce the temperature setting two degrees for every 1000 feet of elevation. |
| 1 If Over Temp Sensor or Ready to Brew appears on the display and the water is too hot, go to Over Temp Sensor Error Message. | |
| 2 If the display reads Heating constantly, first check to make sure that the temperature sensor is attached tightly to the tank and that heat sink compound was used. A properly mounted sensor should have a resistance of around 7 k when the water is hot. If not, replace the sensor. | |
| 3 Check to see if the universal control module (UCM) constantly has power output to the triac, regardless of the resistance of the temperature sensor. If so, the UCM is probably bad. | |
| 4 If the UCM is working properly, check for a bad triac. | |
| Over Temp Sensor Error Message | This error message indicates that the universal control module (UCM) has detected a water overheating problem. The UCM is reading a water temperature in the tank above 21 CPF (99?C). If the water temperature is too hot, but Heating... appears on the display, see Water Too Hot. Once the malfunction causing the error is corrected, the error message must be cleared. To reset the brewer and return to normal operation, turn the toggle switch on the back of the brewer to the OFF position for 5 seconds, then back on. |
| 1 Check for power at the gate terminal on the triac. If there is no power at the triac gate terminal but the heating elements are always on, replace the triac. | |
| 2 Turn off power to the brewer and allow water tank to cool. Once cool, turn power back on while monitoring the triac gate voltage. During normal operation, power should be applied to the gate terminal, then drop to below 1 Vac. The universal control module (UCM) should be replaced if power is applied to the triac gate constantly even though Ready to brew or Over Temp Sensor appears on the display. | |
| 3 If the UCM is operating normally, check for a false over-temp error caused by the temperature sensor. Check the resistance across the leads of the temperature sensor. If the resistance is less than 10 k when the water is cool, replace the temperature sensor. | |
| System Fault Messages | An error message will appear on the screen in the event of a malfunction under the following conditions: |
| 1 Water level overflow. This error indicates that either there is not enough incoming water flow/pressure or a water overflow condition (unit will stop functioning). | |
| 2 Break in temperature control circuit. | |
| 3 Excess temperature in heating tank. |
Curtis RU-150 coffee maker troubleshooting
| PROBLEM | PROCEDURE |
|---|---|
| Water will not heat up or heats up too slowly. | Take a voltage reading at terminals L1 and L3 of the power block (marked A & A) and if there is current at the power block. |
| If there is power, turn the thermostat all the way to boil and clamp your ammeter around heating element wire shown in the single phase diagram below. The reading should be approximately the same as indicated in the serial plate of the machine. | |
| If the meter reads only half of the amps that your urn is rated at (check serial plate), one of the heating elements has burnt out. Clamp your ammeter to determine which of the heating elements is bad. Replace the heating element. | |
| If the water temperature in the urn is too hot (boiling) or too cold when the pilot light goes out, the thermostat must be calibrated. | |
| If the thermostat will not hold a calibration, replace the thermostat. | |
| Water is not flowing into the urn jacket. | Turn off the unit and test the probe assembly and check for grounded wiring. Pull orange wire from the terminal of the liquid level control board at point A, with the quick disconnect terminal attached to the orange wire and with the other lead of the meter, touch the metal surface of the urn. Any reading in the meter dial will indicate the presence of a ground in either the terminals, wire, or probe assembly. Find the ground and repair it. If there is no reading at all on your ohmmeter, the probe is okay. Return the orange wire to the terminal 4 of the liquid level control board where it was removed. |
| Turn the unit on and clamp the leads of your voltmeter at the terminals of the valve coil as shown at B of the illustration below. Under normal conditions, the voltmeter should read 110 to 120 volts while the urn is filling up and power to the coil should stop once the water level reaches the probe tip. If the voltmeter does not show voltage, the liquid level control board is not working properly. It is not sending power to the solenoid valve and the valve does not open. Replace the board. | |
| If both the probe and the liquid level control board are functioning normally, check the water inlet valve. Turn on the unit and disconnect the white and the blue wires from the coil on the valve (points B). Use a lamp cord with alligator clips; hookup the terminals to the cord. Plug the cord into a 120 volt outlet. The valve should open when plugged in and close when unplugged. Repeat this three or four times. If you don’t hear the sound of the solenoid, then the coil is bad. If you hear water flowing through the valve when unplugged, the diaphragm is either torn or needs cleaning. Replace the water inlet valve. | |
| Brew switch light does not turn on when pressed. | Check your power supply and fuse in control box. It may be burned out. |
| Brew switch does not stay on, or light stays on only while switch is pressed but turns off when released and water comes out of spray head only while the switch is kept pressed. | Test Brew Switch: Take a voltage reading at point A while the brew switch is pushed in. If you read 110 volts, that means the switch is good. Test Timer: The timer resets itself to the N. 0. position after every brewing cycle but if it fails to stop itself, it will remain closed and cause the problem in question. |
| To check the timer, power to the control circuit must be turned off. Disconnect STP RED and STP BRN wires and take a continuity test between the two terminals 8 and 9 on the timer. If there is continuity, the timer is faulty and must be replaced. | |
| Test Water Pump: To test the water pump, press the brew switch and take a voltage reading. If there is voltage and the pump does not run, replace the pump. | |
| Test Stop Switch: The last of the components involved in this operation is the stop button. The only function of the switch is to interrupt the cur- rent that energizes the timer after the brew switch has been depressed. A voltage reading at N.O. of the timer will indicate an open or closed condition. | |
| AUTOMATIC AERATION | Inside the control box, there are two silicone tubes connecting the aeration pump to the copper tubes coming from inside the urn. Carefully, pull the silicone tubes from the copper tubes, press the manual aeration button and feel for air flow from the silicone tubes. Replace the pump if air does not blow through the tubes. |
| Only one of the liners is aerated. | |
| Aeration system fails to operate automatically. | Determine that the aeration pump is operating by pressing the manual aeration button on the front panel to see that air comes from the tubes. |
| AGITATION TIMER | Check the agitation timer. Remove the Black wire terminal 1 on the timer. Disconnect the Black wire from the areator switch . Plug this wire into the terminal 1 of the timer (dashed line). The air pump should immediately start pumping air into the liner. If this test fails, replace the agitation timer WC-405R. If the pump runs normally, then replace the wires to their proper connections and proceed to test the aeration switch, below. |
| MANUAL AERATION | Check the continuity of the manual aeration switch. Power to the control circuit must be turned off to check for continuity. Check at the YELLOW wire of the agitation timer and B (BLACK wire) of the manual aeration switch. Press the switch to look for continuity. Check for clean, tight connections at all terminals. |
| Manual aeration is not present on either of the liners, yet automatic aeration operates normally. |