Voltage drops, forced disconnection of the coffee machine, a rare cleaning from the scaling – these are only some reasons which can cause a breakdown of the appliance. The table below describes the main causes of coffee maker failures and methods of repair.
Bloomfield 1016BVM coffee maker troubleshooting
SYMPTOM | POSSIBLE CAUSE | SUGGESTED REMEDY |
---|---|---|
Water won’t heat | Brewer unplugged or circuit breaker tripped | Check power supply cord Check / reset circuit breaker |
Temperature adjusted too low or set to OFF. | Set to on and set for desired temperature. | |
Hi-Limit safety switch tripped | Access hi-limit by removing front panel. Hi-limit is on the left side of the tank. Use an insulated tool to push the red button in until it “clicks” and stays. | |
Damaged internal component or wiring | Allow to cool | |
Examine wiring & connectors, controller, power board and heating element | ||
Repair/replace as needed | ||
Coffee level too high or low | Timer out of adjustment | Adjust controller. |
Too many filter papers or wrong filter paper | Use one (1) genuine Bloomfield filter per brew | |
Brew chamber overflows | Brew chamber dispense hole plugged | Thoroughly clean brew chamber |
Too much coffee or too fine a grind | Use correct grind and amount of coffee | |
Sprays water from brew head | Spray gasket improperly installed | Check/reinstall gasket on INSIDE of brew head |
Spray disk plugged or installed upside down | Clean spray disk and install with ears “up” | |
No brew (faucet flows OK) | Damaged internal component or wiring | Check keypad, controller, power board & solenoid Repair, replace as needed |
No brew plus no flow from hot water faucet | Water supply OFF | Turn water supply ON |
Solenoid inlet strainer plugged | Clean strainer | |
Water filter (if used) plugged | Replace filter element | |
No flow from hot water faucet | Faucet valve turned OFF | Turn faucet valve ON |
Faucet plugged | Disassemble faucet, clean | |
Main warmer inoperative | Warmer Fuse blown | Check wiring for moisture Replace 10 amp fuse |
Poor coffee quality | Keep brewer and decanters clean. | |
Install a taste and odor filter in water supply, and replace cartridges regularly. | ||
Use a quality coffee with a consistent roast. Use proper grind and amount of coffee per brew. |
PROBLEM | CAUSE | ACTION |
---|---|---|
Unit fails to brew | Start switch | Check start switch continuity, replace if defective. |
Timer | Check timer continuity, replace if defective. | |
Unit fails to stop brewing after pressing Stop Brew Switch | Stop Brew Switch | Check Stop Brew Switch continuity, replace if defective. |
Switch open time too short | Press switch for longer than 1 second | |
Water Solenoid Valves | Identify which Solenoid Valve is defective. Replace Solenoid Valve if it does not close when Stop Brew Switch is pressed. | |
Tea overflows from the Filter when brewing | Timer | Check total volume of Tea. Readjust timer if necessary. |
Water Solenoid Valve | Check both Solenoid Valves for correct flow. Replace valve. | |
Water keeps running (Will not shut OFF) | Timer | Timer is defective, will not cycle to OFF condition. Replace timer. |
Water solenoid valve (Plunger stuck open) | Identify faulty valve. Check coil and replace coil or valve if defective. | |
Water fails to heat, and brewer does not work. | No power to brewer | Check if power cord is plugged into wall oulet. Check line fuse or circuit breaker - if OFF, turn it ON or replace. |
If circuit continues to be open, call a qualified service agent. Defective cord or plug - repair or replace. | ||
Loose wires - remove front and top panels and check for loose connections, screws or terminals. | ||
Tighten screws, repair or replace terminals. | ||
Hi-limit safety control | Push Reset (Model 8357GB) | |
Check for a loose wire or connection. Repair and/or reconnect. Disconnect wires and check for continuity on both terminals of the hi-limit safety control. | ||
If continuity is present, the control is functioning properly, if not, replace hi-limit. | ||
Unit damaged due to hook-up to wrong voltage. | Check source receptacle for single phase or mis-wired power receptacle. | |
Water fails to heat, but brewer does work. | Heater switch | Switch in OFF position - turn ON. Defective switch, replace switch. |
Tank Heater | Check for loose wire or connection. Repair or reconnect. | |
Check for proper voltage at tank heater terminals. If voltage is present, element is defective, replace element. | ||
Thermostat | Check for loose wire or connection feeding into the thermostat. | |
If ready light Is ON turn the thermostat adjusting shaft CLOCKWISE to the full ON position. If ready light goes out, water should begin to heat, adjust to proper water temperature. | ||
If ready light stays ON, replace the thermostat. | ||
Ready light fails to glow when water reaches brew temperature | Ready light is defective. | If thermostat cycles ON and OFF and ready light does not glow, replace ready light. |
Water heats, but is not hot enough | Thermostat needs adjustment. | If water from the spray elbow (with spray disc removed) Is not hot enough for proper brewing, and thermostat cycles the tank heater OFF, adjust the thermostat to a higher setting. 1/2 turn equals approximately 18?F (10?C) temperature change. To INCREASE the tank temperature, turn the adjustment shaft in a CLOCKWISE direction. |
Thermostat defective. | If adjusting thermostat to a higher setting does not correct the problem, the thermostat is defective, replace it. | |
Hi-limit safety control (Ready light does not come on) | Hi-limit safety control is defective. Replace it. | |
Water heats, but takes a long time. (Slow recovery) | High lime deposits. | Delime unit. |
Low voltage at source. | Check voltage. It should be within 10% of unit rating plate. If a low voltage condition exists, an electrician should be consulted. | |
A low voltage condition can and does cause frequent service calls, as well as extending water heating time. | ||
Low voltage at tank heater. | Voltage rating and power source must be the same. Check wiring diagram and re-wire. | |
Water temperature too hot. (Steams, Bolls or heat never shuts off) | Thermostat | Thermostat out of calibration or defective. Adjust or replace It. |
Dry Tea remaining in the brew funnel after a brew has been completed. | Spray disc missing. | The spray disc must be in place to break up the water stream. |
Filter paper | Use proper filter papers. | |
Improper loading of the brew funnel. | Filter should be centered in the brew funnel and the tea bed should be level. | |
Tea grounds do not get wet - water leaks out of the bottom of the unit. | Leak In water path | Check for correct fit and leakage at all fittings and tubing assy, tank cover gasket and bypass tubing. |
Weak Tea | Too much water | Adjust timer/Decrease volume or change grind. |
Water temperature too low | Adjust thermostat to a higher setting | |
Improper loading of brew funnel | Filter paper must be centered in brew funnel. Tea bed must be level when staring a brew cycle. | |
Inconsistent volume of Brew | Receiving Dispenser not empty when a brew cycle Is started | Always start with an empty receiving dispenser when a brew is started |
Water pressure too high or fluctuating. | Check flowing water pressure to see if it exceeds 90 PSI at anytime, a pressure regulator should be installed in the water supply line. | |
Water continues to flow. (Will not shut OFF if power is disconnected) | Start switch | Check start switch continuity and wire connections if valve closes. Replace/repair if defective. |
Solenoid Valve | Solenoid Valve is defective If does not close after brewed cycle. Replace Solenoid Valve. | |
No water from the spray disc (when brew switch is activated) | No Water | Be sure water shut-off valves are open. |
No Power | Check line fuse or circuit breaker. If OFF, turn ON, or replace fuse. Make certain unit is alone on its own electrical lines. | |
If fuses or circuit breaker continue to open, call qualified serviceman. | ||
Loose wire or connection | Remove unit top cover and front panel. | |
Check all wires and connections, be certain none are loose or disconnected. | ||
Repair loose connections, and/or wires and reattach. | ||
Strainer (in solenoid) | Strainer may be plugged - clean screen or replace | |
Start Brew Switch | Check switch continuity. If switch does not make and break contact, replace switch. | |
Timer | When Start Brew Switch is pressed, the timer should activate. The timer should continue to operated until the cycle is completed. If not, replace the timer. | |
Water Solenoid Valve | Check both solenoid valves for continuity at the terminals of the solenoid valve coil. If no continuity, replace either solenoid valve coil or the complete solenoid. | |
Check both Solenoid Valves for correct flow. Replace valve If it varies more than 10% of it's gpm (gallons per minute) required. | ||
Brewed volume Too much Tea or too little Tea | Timer | Timer need adjustment. Turn timer adjustment for desired volume change, turn CLOCKWISE to INCREASE the volume or COUNTERCLOCKWISE to DECREASE the volume. |
Check timer cycle several times with a stopwatch. If times are Irregular, replace the timer. | ||
Turn at small increments to avoid large volumn variation. | ||
Flow restrictor in output end of water solenoid valve | Dirty, missing, damaged or inoperative flow restrictor. Replace the water solenoid valve. Particles in the water solenoid valve may partially clog the orifice to the flow restrictor. | |
Water pressure variations | All automatic brewers require a constant water pressure between 30 and 70 PSI for consistent, trouble-free operation. | |
Wide swinging water pressures lead to erratic delivery. A pressure regulator may be needed to stabilize high running pressures. | ||
A water source that falls below 30 PSI results In short pots or erratic volume delivery. |
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